Vancouver: A Nautical Approach

by Nigel Long

Ever since the Squamish and Musqueam peoples first dipped their paddles into the rich waters of Burrard Inlet, locals have been intimate with the sea. The first European explorer to visit the area, Don Jose Maria Narvaez, arrived under sail and dropped anchor here in the summer of 1791, just off shore from what is now known as Spanish Banks. It took nearly a year for George Vancouver to show up and claim the place for England. Over two centuries later, visitors wanting to discover Vancouver on their own terms still approach the city by boat. Some things never change.

Book a kayak with Ecomarine Ocean Kayak Centre (604.222.3565), arrange a morning rendezvous, and then slip into the water at Spanish Banks. Off your port side you'll see the green slopes of the Coast Mountains and giant red freighters waiting to enter one of North America's busiest ports. They share the inlet with blue-blooded yachtsmen from the Royal Vancouver Yacht Club and fresh young boardsailors from the Kitsilano Yacht Club — both anchored off your starboard side. Along the beach, you'll see scantily-clad locals soaking up the sun. The rest of the year you'll find them covered in Gore-Tex, walking their dogs, sipping their ever-present lattes. Whenever you go, paddle confident in the knowledge that, on this voyage, you are never more than a few strokes away from espresso drinks, cocktails, and cosmopolitan cuisine.

Only a hundred meters off the coast of Vancouver's Kitsilano neighbourhood, you'll be surprised by the quiet-the absence of traffic noise, sirens or the usual din of a city. Here the cry of hungry sea gulls competes with the rhythmic splash of your paddle slicing the surface of the sea. On this day trip, you are guaranteed to see a range of shore birds, including cormorants and great blue herons. And, whether you spot them or not, harbour seals will be watching your every move.
As you round Kits Point into False Creek, watch out for low flying kites and the wake of powerboats heading under the art deco Burrard Street Bridge. On the south shore, in the shadow of the Granville Street Bridge, you'll see the piers of Granville Island — an oasis of market stalls, studios, galleries, and theatres. Pull up your kayak on the dock behind the public market and stretch your legs. In its past life, this urban island was crowded with heavy industrial operations. Since its well-planned transformation in 1972, Granville Island has become an essential part of the Vancouver experience.

The heart of the operation is the public market. Here the scents of simmering soup stock, baking bagels and fresh ground curry mingle with the fragrance of hyacinth in bloom. Choose from among over 70 places to eat and drink, including the island's own venerable microbrewery. Pick up lunch in the market, but also be sure to grab some cheese, fruit, and Indian Candy (sweet salmon jerky) for a late afternoon repast. Just outside the market, in Triangle Square, a changing roster of musicians, magicians, jugglers, and dancers provide al fresco entertainment.
Cruising back under the bridges and into English Bay, you'll find Vancouver's West End: one of the most densely populated and eminently liveable neighbourhoods in North America. The beaches here all have a west or southwest aspect so sunbathing is at its best. Up from English Bay beach are dozens of palm and banana trees that always get a double-take from visitors amazed to find such a mild climate in the Great White North.

Past the West End is the dense old growth rainforest of Stanley Park. This massive preserve is one of the most beautiful urban parks in the world. Covering a peninsula and surrounded by city, mountains and sea, Stanley Park helps secure Vancouver's rank among Hong Kong and Sydney as one of the world's most dramatic harbours. Land at Second Beach, unfurl a blanket, and savour your snacks and the sunset over Spanish Banks. Then it's only a short paddle back to the Ecomarine office at Granville Island where you'll drop off your kayak. From there, grab a cab back to your hotel and you'll still have time for a shower before heading to Yaletown.

Like the rest of the False Creek district you've just explored, Yaletown has undergone a stunning rebirth. Urban planners from around the world come here to see how Vancouver transformed a heavy industrial and warehouse district into one of the hippest urban communities west of SoHo. Sample the neighbourhood’s sophisticated flavour at Glowbal Grill & Satay Bar (1079 Mainland Street). Here minimalist lines, natural wood, and warm hospitality welcome the beautiful people for cocktails, conversation, and elegant West Coast cuisine. Start with an appetizer from the Satay menu, followed by the seedling crusted ahi tuna. Finish up with an award-winning British Columbia ice wine to toast your successful voyage. After all, this has been an experience, a perspective, and a city you've earned-one paddle stroke at a time.

source: Canadian Tourism Commision

This reproduction is not represented as an official version of the materials reproduced, nor has it been made in affiliation with or with the endorsement of the Canadian Tourism Commission.

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