King of the World at King Pacific Lodge, British Columbia

B.C.’s King Pacific Lodge ranks among the world’s best wilderness resorts. Fantastic fishing and kayaking are just some of the adventures awaiting fly-in visitors. Then there’s dining and the spa…

BY JUDY LEES

“The fish are skittish today,” remarks our guide as we troll peacefully for elusive salmon. Enjoying our wilderness setting of shorelines spangled in golden-green mosses and silvery lichen backed by thick copses of evergreens, I’m not concerned about catching fish. However, I do wonder about Ronne Ludvigson’s remark.

“There’s a couple of humpback whales in these waters and it affects the fishing,” explains the young but well-experienced guide. Within minutes, two crusty giants surface so close to our boat that I could count the dozens of barnacles attached to their massive backs. Their breach from the chilly Pacific causes waves that rock us like a toy boat in a bathtub and I realize that I’m holding my breath in wonderment.

This sublime moment in nature is thanks to King Pacific Lodge. Snugged into British Columbia’s Barnard Harbour on Princess Royal Island, this fly-in wilderness resort is located on the coastal fringe of the 3.2 million hectare (eight million acre) Great Bear Rainforest. It is lauded by environmentalists – David Suzuki and Robert Kennedy, Jr. have visited – as being among the world’s last unspoiled rainforest. Over the next few days I will thrill at dolphins performing graceful loops, see a wolf chase a deer into the water, catch a glimpse of a black bear on a windswept beach, eyeball harbour seals as they loll on a rocky islet and watch an eagle snatch a fish from just beside our boat. Although I don’t see the unique white Kermode bear (known as the legendary ‘Spirit Bear’), about two dozen of them live on Princess Royal Island: so I keep a watchful eye. It’s little wonder that Outdoor Magazine, the bible for outdoor aficionados, ranks King Pacific among the world’s top ten wilderness resorts.

As well as opportunities to view wildlife and fish salmon-rich waters, the 17-room lodge offers fly fishing, hiking, kayaking and helicopter excursions for sightseeing (one is to Kootz Valley, a grizzly bear habitat) and back-country hiking and fishing. The appeal of the wilderness is matched by the eco-friendly lodge where a staff of 25 pamper guests. It’s no surprise that plaudits in the guest book sing praises from the likes of royalty and movie stars – Kevin Costner recently caught a big fish. The gleaming Red Cedar lodge exudes a comfy elegance with sweeping windows that showcase the gorgeous deep blue of the Pacific – a hue only viewed in the north – backed by moody, deep greens of the thick forest. There are many perks – the sumptuous meals and a blissful massage to end the day, to name a couple.

Guests arrive by float plane from Prince Rupert. My diverse group of nine ranged from an interior decorator from Vancouver seeking R&R to honeymooners from Hong Kong. I think it’s the surroundings – a magical combination of wilderness and elegance – that instantly bonded us. It was as though we had been friends for years as we shared outdoor activities, played fun tournaments in the lodge’s game room and lounged at day’s end. Each day was an adventure and each evening, we relived it with newfound friends.

One morning, six of us kayaked through inlets that appeared untouched. Cherishing the silence of the north, we dipped paddles and took pleasure in the fact that there were no signs of civilization except our fellow kayakers. Another day, we boarded the 10-metre Commander for an hour’s trip to Wolf Track Beach on Campania Island. The silvery sanded beach and emerald waters could easily be in the Caribbean except for the backdrop of scrubby forest and mountain peaks. “Wow,” exclaimed Susan, a doctor from New Brunswick, “This part of the world really delivers when it comes to scenery.”

Six of us and a guide spent the day hiking and kayaking. We paddled McMicking Inlet delighting in the harlequin ducks, eagles, seals and sea lions that took little notice of us. Later, we hiked to take in panoramic views. There was one intrusion on the wild landscape as a huge cruise ship entered a nearby channel: we all groaned in unison.

Another day, three of us joined Carl Healy of Lakelse Air Helicopters. This pilot loves his job as he showcases some of the world’s best scenery from the perspective of an eagle. Apparently we were a typical audience as we “ooohed” and “aaahed” our way above the lonely landscape.

Of course, we all fished. And even Madeline Eng and I, both greenhorn anglers, landed salmon. At last I understand the Zen of fishing: hours of boredom capped by 15 minutes of wild exhilaration as you reel in a 25-pounder. Amazingly, our honeymoon couple had a double hit: they snared big Chinook simultaneously. “Have a great life, kids!” we cheered. “It doesn’t get any better than this.”


source: Canadian Tourism Commision

This reproduction is not represented as an official version of the materials reproduced, nor has it been made in affiliation with or with the endorsement of the Canadian Tourism Commission.



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