Wrapped in History

I love history - I also love being pampered, so when I discovered the Baldachin Inn in Merrickville, Ontario, I was in my element. Less than an hour's drive from Ottawa, Canada's capital city, the Baldachin Inn combines old world charm and elegance with the best of modern amenities.

BY LINDA AKSOMITIS

After a hectic spring of delivering training seminars I was more than ready for a retreat when I checked into the Baldachin, so I’d booked the Bridal Suite. It more than met my expectations! I had not two rooms, but four—a bedroom with a four-poster bed, a sitting room with cozy furniture, a huge Jacuzzi room with a fireplace, plus a small bathroom.

The light beige colors of the bedroom décor contrasted nicely with the dark wood to inspire a feeling of elegance. A throw rug, its rose pattern matching the tapestry finish of the antique chair, covered the original hardwood floor at the bedside. The plaster walls, at least twelve feet high, were still in wonderful condition.

Beautiful stained glass insets framed the wide doorway between the sitting room and bedroom. The same tapestry motif carried throughout the sitting room couch and cushions, and another small rug over the hardwood. Small lamps provided all the light required in the intimate atmosphere.

However, I have to admit I was incredibly pleased to see the large Jacuzzi - certainly a contrast to the first two historical rooms - that filled the corner of the third room! I've always found there's nothing more relaxing than settling into warm water and feeling the gentle massage of spray over aching muscles. The gas fireplace offered another relaxation option in the room. A large shower closet tucked into the opposite wall provided me with an opportunity to get freshened up for supper, while the ½ bath was well equipped with everything I might have needed—or forgotten in my packing.

For my first evening’s meal I wandered down to Harry McLean’s Pub in the street level of the inn. With its 1860’s European Pub styling, I immediately felt at home among the guests and friendly staff. The menu was varied, but after a day in airports and on planes, I decided on a light dinner salad covered with shrimp, delicious.

My night was peaceful, so I felt renewed when I arose late the next morning. I had several things on the day’s agenda: explore the historic community of Merrickville and the Baldachin Inn. I took David and Bev Ellis, the Inn’s owners, up on their offer to show me around.

The Baldachin has a long and varied history. Built in 1860, it was once the largest department store between Chicago and Montreal. One of the key reasons is that the building overlooks the historic Rideau Canal Waterway, which is a series of beautiful lakes and rivers connected by canals for a total of 125 miles (202 km), and was one of the region’s main modes of transportation from its building in 1832. Today a Canadian National Historic Site and designated Canadian Heritage River, the canals are a boater’s paradise and still popular.

Also a Heritage designated building, the Baldachin was owned by railway builder and eccentric millionaire, Harry McLean, in the early 20th century. Like other parts of the historic community, it fell into disrepair for a short period of time before part of it was opened as a dining room in 1987. The Ellis’ purchased it in the spring of 1988 and have restored the entire building over the ensuing years.

Parts of the Baldachin were originally used as apartments, but all have been renovated now to create a selection of a dozen rooms, some full suites and some double rooms, plus several businesses. I visited the Knock Knock Shoppe, with its own street entrance, to discover the 7,000 square feet of antique furniture and fine home accessories. I also stepped into the dress shop to admire not only the racks of beautiful clothing, but also the original embossed metal ceiling and wall coverings.

One of the Baldachin’s treasures is its upper level, which features 15-foot high stonewalls and hardwood floors. It uses a unique building style, the King’s Post Truss system, only found in one other building, still used, in Chicago, which eliminates the need for ceiling supports. This means the giant ballroom is completely open, so brides and their grooms can swirl and twirl the night away. With seating for 200, and an elegant French Country décor, it’s easy to see why the Baldachin Ballroom is a first choice for weddings around the Ottawa area.

Visiting with David, I discovered the Ballroom had once been the center of a much less exciting activity—it had been a Millinery, where hats had been made for the fashionable women of the 1800 and 1900s. The smaller room alongside it had been the dressmaking shop, the size difference reflecting the buying trends of the time. While women usually sewed their own clothing, they pampered themselves with a new hat as the seasons changed.

Evening found me in the Baldachin Dining Room enjoying the superb European cuisine prepared by the Inn’s chef. The chicken was delicious, while my companion’s lamb looked just as delectable. Tiny new potatoes and perfectly prepared vegetables made for a very heart-smart meal; so heart-smart I couldn’t resist the blueberry and whipped cream covered cheesecake for dessert. Relaxation at its best…

As stars filled the evening sky and I curled up with a good book in my sitting room, I imagined myself back a hundred and fifty years in time, listening not to the sounds of cars passing on the street below, but the clip-clop of horses and carriages, and the whistle of ships passing in the canal.


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