From Family Fare to Five-Star Fancy

While not especially known for great dining, Prince Edward Island holds some tasty surprises for epicureans who make a bit of an effort to explore local restaurants.

BY SIMON GARNEAU

When it comes to gastronomy, a fancy word for good eating, some of my friends think Prince Edward Island might as well be the other end of the world.

Take Thomas, a pal in Montreal, who kept warning me as I prepared to move to P.E.I. that I'd have a hard time finding good restaurants. But I'm delighted to be able to inform him and all the other doubting Thomases of this world that my palate is doing just fine, thanks.

Local grocery stores are stocked with everything from tasty vittles to gourmet treats, and the excellent restaurants run the gamut from beaneries to five-star establishments. While there are three or four truly first-class places, the one that really lingers in my mind is Dalvay By The Sea, by far the best restaurant in the province.

The menu and table d'hôte change regularly, so I won't recommend specific dishes. But oh, how I remember an exquisite meal there for which I would have happily crawled several miles, featuring cold blackberry soup, wild mushrooms in puff pastry and tender beef with star anise. Dalvay by the Sea is one of those rare dining establishments where bad surprises simply aren't on the menu. Located in the heart of Prince Edward Island National Park on beautiful Dalvay Beach, this delightful hotel-restaurant affords both a scenic setting and a memorable meal.

Considering the upscale premises, Dalvay By The Sea's prices are actually pretty reasonable. But they may not suit everyone's budget (certainly not mine, anyway!), so following are suggestions for four other topnotch restaurants where you can eat well without having to dig too deep into your pockets.

Piece of Cake
Tucked away on the second level of Charlottetown's Confederation Court Mall, Piece A Cake Restaurant isn't easy to find. But once you do, chances are you'll return again and again.

Despite its quaint moniker, Piece A Cake doesn't specialize in desserts, although its caramel pie with mixed nuts is utterly scrumptious. Rather, it serves up fine food in an atmosphere of casual elegance. Fans of "the other white meat," for instance, are bound to enjoy its unusual and mouthwatering entrée of pecan crusted pork loin.

Closer to the waterfront, The Merchantman Pub cheerfully beckons hungry diners. The word "pub" doesn't accurately describe this establishment, as it doesn't serve traditional pub grub like bangers and mash, shepherd's pie and pickled eggs. Rather, the menu is cosmopolitan and eclectic, with choices ranging from Thai to Italian to Cajun. I also recommend the fish-and-chips tempura, which in my humble opinion is one of the two best fish-and-chips meals on the Island. The other? Patience ― I'll get to that in a moment.

Half an hour east of Charlottetown, picturesque Victoria-by-the-Sea teems with visitors in summer and is something of a tourist trap in that almost everything is overpriced.

The Landmark Café on Main Street near the Victoria Playhouse is an exception. It's not super-cheap, but on the other hand owner Eugène Sauvé sees to it that diners always get their money's worth. From the quiche to the hearty salads and the fresh fish, everything is appealing, and so is the friendly staff.

Bonus on the Clyde
Just about anybody who comes to P.E.I. ends up visiting Cavendish, drawn by its picturesque scenery, miles of coastal beaches and Anne of Green Gables-related sites. But when it comes to eating, nearby New Glasgow is a better bet.

Café on the Clyde in New Glasgow is a welcome change in a province where fried food is all too common. Fish cooked on the restaurant's so-called "green egg," a rounded green barbecue, is especially delicious. And don't miss the café's tearoom, where the view of the Clyde River is lovely and the braised salmon filet on cedar is a must for seafood fanciers.

If you absolutely must have fried food, then head back to Charlottetown, where you can indulge your craving with gusto at the Seatreat Restaurant. Sure, lots of Island eateries offer home-style fare, but the Seatreat does it especially well. Its unprepossessing exterior hides an establishment that not only excels at hot chicken sandwiches, hamburgers and the like, but is famous for its fish and seafood dishes.

While "fish and chips" usually means overcooked fish in greasy batter, that's definitely not the case at the Seatreat, where the fish is tender and the batter thin, golden and crisp. Even the coleslaw is great, leaving my vote for best fish and chips on the Island split between the Seatreat and The Merchantman Pub.

Of course, any discussion of P.E.I. cuisine invariably includes lobster. But I would strongly advise lobster lovers to steer clear of the Island's renowned lobster suppers, which charge an exorbitant sum for an all-you-can-eat fish soup followed by a tiny, overcooked crustacean.

For succulent fresh-caught lobster, head to Richard's Seafood Eatery on the wharf at Covehead Harbour on the Island's north shore, where fine, sweet-fleshed lobsters are served hot or cold. And if you fancy the delectable roe, just order up a female lobster.

I hope the sceptics out there now realize that when it comes to good food, far from being at the other end of the world, Prince Edward Island is world class.


source: Canadian Tourism Commision

This reproduction is not represented as an official version of the materials reproduced, nor has it been made in affiliation with or with the endorsement of the Canadian Tourism Commission.



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