Lighthouse Picnics: fresh take on a timeless tradition

(Originally published in TOURISM)

When a tourism product captures the simple pleasures of life in a coastal town of Newfoundland and Labrador like Ferryland’s Lighthouse Picnics, a site visit can be almost like a revelation.

Four years ago, Jill Curran and Sonia O’Keefe embarked on a bold project. They started operating a scenic picnic business at the old Ferryland lighthouse, about an hour south of St. John’s. The lighthouse dates back to 1870 and is still operational, though it has been automated since 1970. For a whole century, it was staffed by families who lived in the integrated quarters built for two households; the lighthouse is a timeless shelter in a formidable landscape.

Here lies one of the most dramatic views on the Avalon Peninsula, ever‑changing as you walk along the Downs. On most summer days a variety of whales can be seen off Ferryland Head. “During our very first year in 2003, we operated completely outside the building. At the time, we used to cook at Ferryland, drive ourselves out here, and set up a stand, umbrellas, baskets, the whole works. It raised a few eyebrows,” admits Jill Curran. “People used to say ‘you are giving up your full‑time job to do what?’ It went really well. We didn’t even have to advertise, which is another great secret of success.”

Just getting there is a bit of an experience in itself. After a 25‑minute hike along a well‑used track, lined on both sides with spectacular rocky shores, you arrive at the lighthouse. “People come in, identify themselves and look at what we have on offer. We have a limited menu, but we change it every day to add new desserts and things. We use only the freshest local products, and where possible, we use organic and Fairtrade products. All the bread is made here, the lemonade, everything. Guests are given a picnic blanket and a flag. There are books they can take with them to read while they wait for their lunch, and they just find a spot and sit down. We get their lunch ready and deliver it right to them.

“The flags are a customer’s idea. The word 'customer' sounds too formal, because the many people who have supported our business have become friends. This particular friend, who comes here all the time, said ‘girls, you need a system.’ As you can see there are no tables numbered 1 to 5. She suggested that we use a color‑coded system. We needed to give clients something to identify them by because it was getting ridiculous. We used to write down: ‘couple with two children—one child has pink coat.’ We were spending a lot of time writing down detailed descriptions. She suggested we use the signal flags. So we now use them as markers and it works with the lighthouse theme. We identify the picnic parties by the flags and match them up with their order.”

Lighthouse Picnics has become the talk of the tourism industry in St. John’s trade development circles, mostly because of the authentic character of this fresh new offering. It is not surprising, given the operation’s almost overnight success.

“The word started spreading,” recalls Jill Curran. “That winter of 2003, we started renovating the lighthouse dwelling. The building had been closed for 21 years and it needed floors and walls and had never had running water. Luckily we hired a really good contractor who kind of oversaw the project for us. We opened in May of 2004 and we have had tremendous support from the community. Since we opened, people have been giving us pictures of themselves at this site over the years, and we have recovered artifacts from the lighthouse that had been stored in local homes. They are all on display for our visitors; we are trying to capture some of the social history around the role the lighthouse played in people’s lives here in Ferryland.”

It is worth noting that Curran and her partner have obviously touched on a fundamental aspect of life in a region where picnics are a timeless ritual. “The picnic idea is a very traditional thing in lots of societies, but particularly in Newfoundland. Whether during Sunday gatherings, or while people are out picking berries, cutting wood, fishing and hunting, people have always had this time when they just stopped to cook and sit down and enjoy the food and each other’s company. We have just put in a twist on a really old idea, and marrying that with a beautiful location makes for a nice day for most people.”

Much credit should go to both young women for having the foresight to believe the picnic experience could be commercialized in a way that is genuinely value‑added – in a manner that eloquently makes picnics more accessible than they ever were for tourists. Jill strongly believes in this: “It has been our commitment from day one. This operation used to be just the two of us; in peak summer season, we now have about nine people who work with us. We are still committed to high quality food and a quality experience. (It's) not just running in and grabbing your food; it is more like ‘come sit down and enjoy the ocean, enjoy the whales and relax.’ That is the whole concept behind what we do.”

As with all great ideas, the production of the picnics is quite demanding, Jill confides: “We have to bring in our food, bring out our garbage. If our well goes dry we have to bring out water for the well to wash dishes. We bring in all our drinking water and other supplies. I’m only 5 feet 2 inches so I have had to become very strong!

"It is a lot of work. We were here this morning at about 6:00 trying to get bread rising because we knew we would be busy today, and I had to pick up some last‑minute supplies last night and we were here until midnight. You have to really love what you do to be that committed to your business. We are always learning, every single day."

I suspect that some of the people who come out to the Ferryland Lighthouse are drawn as much by the prospect of meeting some of the finest ambassadors of Newfoundland and Labrador’s cultural heritage as they are by the food and the scenery. Their business venture is truly an inspiration.